「邪鬼」がんばってます。（東寺五重塔にて）（愛知県名古屋市千種区 骨董買取 古美術風光舎）
2023.06.27
みなさまこんにちは、スタッフYでございます。
先日、所要のため京都に少し立ち寄ったのですが。
問題。さて、ここはどこでしょう。
答えは、東寺（教王護国寺）の五重塔であります。
皆ご存じ新幹線などで京都駅に近づいてきますと、目に飛び込んできますあの五重塔ですが。東寺の五重塔が見えますと「京都にきたーっ。」と毎度テンションがあがるあのランドマーク的存在ですよね。
ちなみにですが五重塔、京都には６つあるようでして。ご紹介いたしますと…（以下順不同）
１．国宝「東寺五重塔」、京都市南区 １６４４年建立 約５５ ｍ
２．国宝「醍醐寺五重塔」、亰都市伏見区 ９５１年建立 約３８ｍ
３．重文「八坂の塔（法観寺）」、京都市東山区 １４４０年建立 約４６ ｍ
４．重文「仁和寺五重塔」、京都市右京区 １６４４年建立 約３６ ｍ
５．国宝「海住山寺五重塔」、京都府木津川市 １２１４年建立 約１８ ｍ
６．「成相寺五重塔」、京都府宮津市 １９９８年建立 約３３ｍ
６つございました。
私もまあまあ長く生きており、しかも京都に5年ほど在住しておりましたのでいろいろ巡り巡ってきてたつもりはいたのですが、実は東寺には一度も訪れたことがないことに気づきまして。きっと、新幹線からの風景をみて、いつも訪れた気になっていたのでしょう笑。
そんな中、先日はやっとその機会に恵まれましたので、はじめてあの五重塔を間近で見みることとができました。
ご存じの通り、東寺の五重塔は天長3年（826年）にあの弘法大師空海の創建したお寺と言われておりまして、幾度となる焼失を経て現在の建物は寛永21年（1644年）に徳川家光が寄進によるものであります。
なんでもランキングにしてしまうのはよくない癖なのですが、その高さは現存する日本の古塔中最高でして、その高さは約55ｍ。国宝にも指定されております。
しかも、池に映る五重塔の姿を見ることができるのは、実はここだけでして、今回はたまたま蓮の季節に訪れたということで、蓮との写真を撮ることにも成功。
この五重塔、内部は特別拝観時に公開されるのでありますが、先日はその扉はがっちりと閉ざされておりまして、（残念）五重塔の初層内部には、極彩色で彩られた密教空間が広がっており、五重塔の各層を貫いている心柱は、大日如来として、その周りを四尊の如来、八尊の菩薩が囲み、また四方の柱には金剛界曼荼羅が描かれているということです。
The problem. Where is this place?The answer is the five-story pagoda of Toji Temple (Kyouou Gokokuji Temple).
You know that five-story pagoda that you see when you are approaching Kyoto Station on the Shinkansen bullet train. Whenever I see the five-story pagoda of Toji Temple, I always get excited and say, “I’m in Kyoto! It is a landmark of Kyoto.By the way, there are six five-story pagodas in Kyoto. Here are some of them (in no particular order)
1. national treasure “Toji five-story pagoda”, Minami-ku, Kyoto, built in 1644, about 55 m
2. National Treasure “Five-storied Pagoda of Daigoji Temple”, Fushimi-ku, Kyoto, built in 951, about 38 m.
3. “Yasaka-no-to (Pagoda of Yasaka)” (Hokanji Temple), National Treasure, built in 1440, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto, 46 m approx.
4. “Five-storied Pagoda of Ninna-ji Temple”, National Treasure, built in 1644, Ukyo-ku, Kyoto, approx. 36 m.
5. “Five-storied Pagoda of Kaijusanji Temple”, National Treasure, Kizugawa City, Kyoto, built in 1214, approx. 18 m
6. “Five-storied Pagoda of Seishoji Temple”, Miyazu City, Kyoto Prefecture, built in 1998, about 33 m.
There were six of them.I have lived in Kyoto for about five years, and I have visited many places, but I realized that I had never visited Toji Temple. I guess I always thought I had visited To-ji because of the view from the Shinkansen, lol.But the other day, I finally had the opportunity to visit the temple, and for the first time I was able to see the five-story pagoda up close and personal.As you know, the five-story pagoda of Toji Temple was built by Kobo Daishi Kukai in 826, and the present structure was donated by Tokugawa Iemitsu in 1644 after it was burned down many times.
It is a bad habit to rank everything, but it is the tallest existing pagoda in Japan at about 55 meters, and is designated as a National Treasure.
Moreover, this is the only place where you can see the five-story pagoda reflected in a pond.
The interior of the five-story pagoda is open to the public on special occasions, but the door was tightly closed the other day (unfortunately). The four Dainichi Nyorai, the eight Bodhisattvas, and the Mandala of the Vajrayana Realm are painted on the pillars on all four sides.
The interior of the five-story pagoda is a story for another time, but one thing you must not forget to see in Toji’s five-story pagoda is the “evil demon” that supports it.
It is often seen at the foot of buildings and other structures in shrines, temples, and shrines, with a bitter face. What is it? Is it a person or something else? They are “evil demons,” but since they have a “twisted character,” they are sometimes called “Amanojaku,” which means “evil demon from heaven. (Honkehonten).
So, I looked under the eaves of the five-story pagoda.
Can you see the small “evil demon” that is trying its best to support this large building under the wood and timber of the roof at the bottom? There they are.
Each of the demons in each of the four squares is supporting the five-story pagoda with a different style and expression. (Sorry the photo is a little confusing.)
The Amanojaku, as I mentioned earlier, have a twisted character, so they are supposed to oppose the force from above (the weight of the building) and apply an equal force (the force of the Amanojaku) from below to keep the building parallel and not leaning. This character alone makes it a very important task.
The five-story pagoda of Ninna-ji Temple and the five-story pagoda of Horyu-ji Temple also seem to have their own evil demons working hard.
The five-story pagoda of Ninna-ji Temple and the five-story pagoda of Horyu-ji Temple were not affected by the Great Hanshin Earthquake, so the pagoda’s strength has been proven. （It is really amazing.) I am sure there have been many natural disasters before that, but when I think of how those small square demons have supported this large building for so long, I cannot help but wonder about the power of the “Amanojaku”.
If you have a chance to see them, I would like you to see their wrinkled faces as they support the building with all their might, but in any case, you cannot help but cheer them on.
Have a good day.
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